A Week in Rome Leaves One Weak
Friday, October 18, 2013
Today was a quiet and
uneventful day. We left Pompeii bright and early, gazed at Vesuvius one final
time, and enjoyed a smooth trip all the way to the Rome Airport. We checked
into our hotel (which turned out to be a lovely one bedroom apartment) and
spent the balance of the day organizing our luggage and planning for our days
in Rome.
I know it is said that you
can do Rome in a day but that seems like an impossible dream at the moment. We
have 5 full days in Rome and a list that of things we want to do that will far
exceed that time.
We have tickets for the Vatican and Borghese Gallery. We have a plan about how to best see the Forum, Coliseum and the Palatine Hill. And we have a wonderful night walk across Rome all planned for one lovely evening.
We have tickets for the Vatican and Borghese Gallery. We have a plan about how to best see the Forum, Coliseum and the Palatine Hill. And we have a wonderful night walk across Rome all planned for one lovely evening.
Markets, piazzas, bus tours,
churches and galleries all call our name. And so does exploring the
neighbourhood in which we will be staying, Termini. How to fit it all in will
be the puzzle of the next several days.
We will see what we will see.
Our Rome adventure is about to begin!
Rome – More Than We Could Ever Have Expected
Saturday, October 19, 2013
Our bags are packed.
We’re ready to go,
Standing here beside our car,
All we have to do is drop it
off …..
And then hop on the nonstop train from Fumi to Rome. Simone’s
Suite awaits our arrival and with any luck we will be able to explore the local
market before noon.
The train provided a smooth
and quiet ride. Simone’s directions to our new ‘home’ were excellent. Our apartment is very close to Termini
Station. Even pulling luggage, it was only a 10 – 15 minute walk
We immediately knew we were
going to be very happy with what we had rented. The apartment is compact,
efficient, clean, well equipped, and has a window and a door that open,
allowing the fresh air in.
There is a Laundromat, a
patisserie, a milk bar, a restaurant and a daily fruit and veg market right
outside our door. An a supermarket just around the corner. Perfect!
Simone, our landlord, had
mentioned that there was to be a labour demonstration later in the day near
Termini Station. As we walked along the nearby streets, we began to notice
things that caused us to wonder just how big this demonstration was going to
be. Businesses that would normally be open on a Saturday were closed up tighter
than a drum. Of particular note was the large Conad Supermarket that had all
its shutters closed and fencing all around the building. We stopped for a bite
to eat at a corner restaurant and were told we could have a drink but no food
as they were closing for the day in about 15 minutes. Hmm … Then we began to
see the large presence of police on every street we walked on. Police with
machine guns at the ready. There was even a sniper on the top of a large
government building. Police tape had been installed to limit access to certain
areas and some roads were closed to traffic. We did begin to wonder whether our
plans for the rest of the day made any sense at all, given that we were now
beginning to understand the scope of what this demonstration was.
We found a delightful
restaurant quite close to our apartment that was still open and filled with
diners. Was that because it was the only establishment that was still open or was
it because it was highly acclaimed for its food and service? Only one way to
find out so we ventured in.
We immediately saw an option
for lunch that we had not encountered anywhere else in Italy. This restaurant,
Famiglia by name, had a very large selection of antipasto dishes and salads
available as a buffet. Jim and I both decided this would be a good way to
sample some foods that we had not yet tried, or perhaps that we did not even
know existed. Jim, very artfully filled two plates with a wide range of tasty
morsels and we taste tested every one. Some seafood, some vegetables, some
meat, some rice, some pasta …. All very good. It was a great choice and we
fully enjoyed our meal.
When we left the restaurant,
the streets were eerily quiet. Even though it was the middle of the afternoon,
siesta time, there was a quiet around us that was uncanny. We decided it would
be prudent to head back to our apartment rather than exploring the
neighbourhood more fully. What a good choice!
Before long, a parade was underway
passing by the end of our street. An estimated 250,000 demonstrators were
participating, chanting, waving flags, singing solidarity songs. We had a great
view from the window at the front of our apartment. Needless to say, it took a
very long time for the parade to pass by.
All the while, police were visible and a police helicopter kept close
watch from the sky.
Fortunately we had picked up
some bread, cheese, fruit and vegetables at local shops earlier so we were able
to muster a tasty but small meal without leaving home. We can explore tomorrow with a greater degree
of confidence.
Sunday, October 20, 2013
And explore we did!!
We were out bright on early
to ride on the Hop On Hop Off bus. We managed to get the front seats upstairs
and rode around the entire route. We had our first glimpse of the Coliseum, St.
Peter’s Basilica, thousands of people heading into the Vatican for the Pope’s
Sunday morning blessing, the River Tiber. The commentated tour of Rome helped
us get oriented to the city. There is so much packed into a small space. Where
should we begin?
Our first impressions of Rome
are that it is a clean, compact, and
accessible on foot. It is also busy with oh so many tourists (I cannot imagine
what it would be like in the summer). We heard all sorts of languages being
spoken. Rome is a cosmopolitan city, people from all over the world live here
and there are restaurants to support many cultures.
After one full tour on the Hop
On Hop Off bus, we travelled as far as Stop 3 on the next round. Stop 3 is the Paletine
Hill and where we joined the line with all the other tourists who had been
advised that this is the best place to enter a trio of high demand attractions
(Paletine Hill, the Roman Forum, and the Coliseum). The line was shorter than
lines we had seen at other places as we passed by on the bus. It gave us a
head’s up about the need to stand patiently in lines in Rome. Jim and I will
need to gird our loins for the lines.
It did not take long for us
to reach the front of the line (40 minutes) and we purchased our 2 day pass
which will enable us to enter all three attractions with no waiting. (Good
advice, Jane!)
We were astounded by what
awaited us on Paletine Hill. I have to admit we knew very little about this
particular site. It is an enormous and diverse area that was originally a
private residence for the Roman Emporer. It was opulent and it was large. Some rooms were
over 1000 square feet. High on a hill, the Palentine buildings overlooked the
Forum and the Coliseum. Incredible
gardens, exquisitely designed, enhanced the landscaping. The aqueduct and
cisterns ensured an ongoing supply of water. Even in the early days in Rome,
engineers had developed a well
established water supply and distribution system.
Of course, the buildings were
in ruins but the parts that remained standing gave great insight into size,
quality of construction, value of design, balance of public and private spaces.
We were more than a little awed by Paletine Hill’s scope.
We then followed advice of others
and walked directly from Paletine Hill to the Roman Forum. Less seems to be
known about what was actually in the Forum. The range of buildings, most still
being excavated suggest that there were places of business, worship, and gathering. What fascinated us is that such
an enormous area of ruinous buildings has been left intact for so many years. Why
has this are never been ‘bulldozed’ in the name of progress. This reflects a
deeply held value about the culture and history in this country.
One temple in the Forum area
included several pillars of marble imported from Egypt. At some point, there
was an attempt made to dismantle the pillars, to take them down. But the effort
failed due to the strength of construction and weight of the pillars. There is clear
evidence through marks on the pillars about the efforts to remove this temple –
yet there it stands.
We left the Forum and finally
took our first break of the day. We stopped for coffee amid a street fair. The
street was busy with families and people of all ages. Buskers, musicians and games
for children and adults provided entertainment and created a lively, colourful atmosphere.
This street fair served as a great diversion from the intense history lesson we
had just had.
After a brief respite from touring,
we headed to our next destination, was Piazza Campo Doglio positioned high
above the Forum ( it was quite a walk up the long hill to the top). This piazza
was designed by Michelangelo. There we were surrounded by three amazing
buildings and larger than life sculptures created by the master, himself. It
was awesome to see Michaelangelo’s sculptures on pedestals in the open air. Piazza
Campo Doglio was graceful and beautiful. With the Piazza high above the Forum, it
provided wonderful views across Rome – St. Peter’s Dome, the Coliseum, the
Tiber River, the inner city and the suburbs stretched out before our eyes. The
café at the very top caught our attention (we can never resist another coffee) and
we enjoyed a beverage while drinking in the views of Rome. Breathtaking!
We walked down and down and
down the steps and returned to the Hop On Hop Off bus one more time and headed
back to Termini. We stopped at a local restaurant for dinner and then we were in
for the evening. We had been on the road by bus and on foot for 12 hours. It
was time to relax!
Monday, October 21, 2013
Our morning started early as
the market vendors for the Montebello Street market set up for the day.
Clothing, fruit, vegetables, flowers,
purses, shoes and all manner of other goods were available right outside
our door. We spent some time looking at food items we could not identify, in
particular, puntarella, a leafy green vegetable we saw growing in southern
Italy. It was abundant in the fields and we were curious how it was prepared.
It turns out you can use it raw in salads or cooked as a companion for meat. We
might have a chance to try it ourselves before we leave Rome later this week.
Once again, this morning we were
out on the trail before 9 am. Back on the Hop On Hop Off bus but only as far as
the Coliseum this time. Each time we travel on this bus we learn something new
from the commentary and we see something new as we travel through Rome. Today we saw enough interesting places to
shop that we already have tomorrow planned. But I must not get ahead of myself
…
Today we are visiting the
Coliseum. It is an enormous structure with a similar amount of history. We
arranged to have a guided tour. Our guide was an archeologist who had vast
knowledge of the history of the Coliseum, insight into the current excavation
projects and a few stories to tell as well. We were very happy with the pace
and content of the tour and what we learned from her.
After we were finished at the
Coliseum, we reboarded our favourite bus one more time. This time our
destination was the Vatican. And we had several plans of how to spend our time
while there.
First, we lined up at St.
Peter’s Basilica. The line was very long but moved quickly and within 15
minutes we found ourselves going through the security check and then we were
in. It was one of those ‘pinch me’ moments in life. Am I really at the Vatican?
In St. Peter’s Basilica? Wow!!
We have all seen photos and
TV coverage of events in the Basilica but nothing from those media prepared me
for the size, the beauty, the opulence and the aura of the real thing! Such a
treasury of faith, of art (Michelangelo’s only signed sculpture is there), of
politics, of history and of personal stories. From the moment we entered to the
moment we left, we were in awe!!!
From the Basilica, we walked
along the Vatican wall to the Vatican Museum. We used Rick Stebe’s guide to
help us navigate this enormous place. He has a tongue in cheek approach to
viewing art in overwhelming circumstances. With his book to help us, we were
able to find and enjoy sculptures and paintings by Michelangelo, Salvadore
Dali, Rodin, Raphael and many more. What we were really doing was slowly but
surely making our way toward the Sistine Chapel. And we were trying to preserve
our energy to take in the breathtaking beauty we were about to witness.
Indeed, the Sistine Chapel
was absolutely amazing!!! Michelangelo was a master in his design and
paintings. What a treasure is held therein. We felt so privileged to be able to
spend some time really looking at and studying the murals he created. We were
also grateful to have found seats in the standing room only crowd to rest our
tired tootsies before we headed on our way once again. Being in the Chapel and
reflecting on all the times we have seen or waited for history to take place
here … Another absolutely awesome experience for both of us.
We left the Chapel and
realized that we had not eaten since breakfast. We knew of a highly recommended
Pizza Restaurant close by. We headed there on foot. It was further than we
expected and once again we were pretty tired by the time we arrived. And then
we discovered …. It is a take-out place only.
Plan B …. We had passed a
Chinese restaurant a couple of blocks earlier so we made a quick decision to go
there instead. Yes, Chinese food in Italy! Actually it was pretty good, very
similar to Chinese food we might get at home. We enjoyed the meal, rested our
feet again and felt nourished. And, we decided to take a taxi home ….. it had
been another long day!
Tuesday, October 22, 2013
We had a slower start today.
One of the benefits was that we actually prepared breakfast in our apartment
rather than carrying a picnic with us to eat along the way. It felt good to do
some cooking. Scrambled eggs, fresh bread from the bakery next door, a medley
of rocket, sweet red pepper and fennel, and grilled tomatoes. Mmmm …. Did we
ever enjoy this meal!!
And then, walking shoes on,
we headed out the door to explore more of Rome. Today, the focus was on
churches and other public buildings that housed significant works of art.
Several friends as well as published sources had provided quite detailed
information on where we could find sculptures, paintings and stained glass
windows.
Elefanto (Bernini), Our first
stop was at Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva where, in the courtyard in
front of the church stood the obelisk and sculpture by Bernini. It was called
Elefanto and, not surprisingly, featured a beautifully carved, well
proportioned elephant. Rising high above the elephant was an Egyptian obelisk,
imported from Egypt many centuries ago.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva is the only gothic style church in Rome. This is significant since
other churches that had gothic characteristics have been renovated or modified
to remove or cover them. Inside this same church, we were able to get close
enough to touch Michelangelo’s sculpture, Christo Risorto (Christ Bearing the
Cross), carved in 1520. Imagine …. Close
enough to touch. Simply sitting on its pedestal at the front of the sanctuary
with no protective case or security system. Amazing!
We walked from there to the
Pantheon. As we entered, both Jim and I realized that this structure and its
interior were absolutely remarkable. It was nothing like we expected and
nothing like anything we have seen in Rome to date. The Pantheon has been in
continuous use for about 2000 years. Built in 27 BC, it has been through many
incarnations. Hadrian made a major renovation to the building in 1120 AD. Much
later (608 AD), the building was converted to a Christian church. This change
likely is the primary reason that the Pantheon has been so well maintained and
fallen into ruin like so many of the other historical sites in Rome. Raphael,
considered one of the three great masters of the high renaissance, contributed
significant paintings in the Vatican Palace. He
is buried in the Pantheon.
We paused for a light lunch
after we exited the Pantheon. We chose a delightful outdoor café and enjoyed
bruschetta (me) and tomato soup (Jim). From our table we could admire the Egyptian
Obelisk built by Rameses II. It was subsequently removed from Egypt by the
Romans about 2000 years ago. It was put up but later disappeared and was
ultimately found under Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva in 1374. It was then
erected near the Pantheon. But its days of travel were not over because in
1711, the Pope decided to build a fountain in a piazza in front of the Pantheon
and moved the obelisk to the middle of the fountain. It remains there today.
As we continued on our
walking tour through old Rome, we came upon Sant'Eustachio Café in the Piazza with
the same name. This café is considered by some to be the best cup of coffee in
all of Rome. Of course we had to have some in spite of the fact that we had
just finished lunch. Jim and I do not necessarily agree with the opinion of
this café’s greatness but we did enjoy a break from walking on cobblestone. It
was a place for great people watching.
The Piazza di Sant'Eustachio
is a very lively place with several cafes to choose from and a great number of
men in suits who work nearby. We were predicting that there must be some
government offices in the area …but more about that later.
A unique church was located in the Piazza di
Sant’Eustachio and bore the same name. it had a rather unusual cross on its
roof and a strange story to go with it. The cross on the top of the church was
lodged between the antlers of a stag. According
to legend, Placidus, a Roman general, was out hunting one day and saw a stag
and had a vision of a crucifix lodged between the stag's antlers. He
immediately became a Christian, had his family baptised and changed his name to
Sant'Eustachio. And thus, the head of the stag sits high above the street with
a cross between his antlers.
Our next stop was Chiesa di
Sant'Ivo alla Sepienza which featured a very unusual spiraling steeple. It was
quite beautiful and certainly distinguished itself from other nearby churches.
Unfortunately the church was closed when we arrived so we were not able to
visit the interior. Saint Ives is the Patron Saint of Jurists. I think it is no
coincidence that this church is located extremely close to the Senate building.
Piazza Navona was next. What
a lively place it was! Buskers and artists and street vendors and cafes and
restaurants lined this large oval shaped plaza. And it was absolutely full of
people just like us who were strolling around Rome on a gloriously warm autumn
day.
In the middle of the piazza
was a very large fountain, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, created by Bernini in
1651. It is a remarkable sculpture featuring human representations of four
rivers from around the world. Each figure is designed to express feelings about
the other rivers. Amazing how such a story can be told through the artist’s
tools as he shapes the marble into characters.
Also in Piazza Navona was a
very large church façade, Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone. And yet, upon entry,
it was surprisingly small but incredibly ornate. The paintings were exquisite,
the marble carvings and pillars were spectacular in design and colour. And
silence was maintained by the visitors. The space had a reverence to it that
made the visit peaceful and very special.
We had missed a visit to a
significant church earlier in the day so we retraced some of our steps so as
not to miss out on seeing Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi. The interior was
breathtaking – painted ceilings, ornate and guilded to add beauty, a dome with
a magnificent pattern therein. We were very happy we had chosen to come back.
But the primary reason we returned was to see one of Carvaggio’s most
significant paintings. In fact, it is a series of three paintings, created in
1599-1600. The middle painting is the Inspiration of St. Matthew. It is flanked
by two other Carvaggio’s - The Calling of St. Matthew and The Martyrdom of St.
Matthew. These were the works that
defined Carvaggio as a significant artist and led to his fame. Once again, this
art was on view for the public to enjoy.
At this point, we needed a
change of pace and we found just that. We were on our way to the Leonardo da
Vinci Museum. We had different purposes in mind, I must say. Jim was looking
forward to exploring the exhibits. I was solely interested in the gift shop. I
have not done any serious shopping for days and the time is running out. We
were both very happy with our visit to this museum. Jim had time to enhance his
knowledge of Da Vinci and I had a chance to make some purchases for our family
that will make da Vinci and household word.
It was then that we headed
for Campo de' Fiori, another wonderful piazza. By day, it attracts local
residents to its substantial market. In the late afternoon, there is a
transformation in the Campo when the market is all cleaned up and tables and
umbrellas spill forth and transform the area into a mecca of choices for happy
hour and for dinner. As dark descended on the piazza and the lights began to
twinkle, the transformation was complete.
We were there for happy hour
and enjoyed sipping a beer/wine and watching the various activities that were
necessary to change the area from day time use to night time use.
When we had finished our
drinks we continued on our way. Our day was not quite over yet. Nearby there is
an area of Rome that has historically been occupied by the Jewish community.
During World War II of course, this was not a happy place to be and a couple of
thousand Jews were removed from their homes and never returned. Nonetheless,
the area has thrived. The streets are filled with small workshops of various
artisans (furniture makers, print makers, dressmakers, leather shops, philatelic
shops, ceramics studios … and so on). It was fascinating to see the artists at
work as we passed by their doors in the early evening.
I have to admit that by this
time (7:30 pm), I was running out of steam so we returned to Campo Di Fiori for
dinner. Chicken for me and rabbit for Jim. But we also ordered two vegetables
that we had seen growing in the fields as we travelled through the countryside
but had never tasted.
Puntarella is a leafy green
vegetable that grows in great abundance in south Italy. It has a central thin
core and many layers of leaves. It can be served cooked or raw but requires
some preparation if it is not going to be cooked. On the menu tonight it was a
raw vegetable, served a bit like a salad and seasoned with olive oil and
sardines. It was a bit like celery …. It had a crunchy texture and was quite
refreshing but really had no significant flavour.
Jim ordered chicory. It was
cooked and looked a lot like spinach except stringier when it arrived at our
table. We both sampled it and quite liked the flavour.
Over dinner, we discussed how
we were going to see the last few places on our list as the day really had now
passed us by. We decided to hire a taxi to take us to a couple of places that
were described as very beautiful in the evenings. Happily, the taxi driver we
connected with liked the idea and was very patient as he waited for us while we
visited the illuminated Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. Trevi Fountain absolutely
took our breath away! Such beauty and grandeur … and yes, we did toss our coins
into the fountain. Hopefully we will be back one day.
Wednesday, October 23, 2013
Today was our last full day
to explore Rome. After 6 weeks in Italy, it seems hard to believe that our time
here is almost over. We still had quite a list of places we wanted to visit and
things we wanted to do.
One of the major things on
the ‘yet to do’ list was to go shopping. I have been so patient as we have
travelled around by bus, taxi and on foot to see the wonderful sights of Rome.
There has been virtually no time for shopping and there are a few things I
would like to check out. Some are gifts for folks at home but, frankly, some
items are just for me!!
For example, there is a Desigual
store in Rome. In fact, there are two of them, both within walking distance of
the apartment we are in. Today was the day!!
Jim had already been out in
our own small community taking photos of the street market, the patisserie, the
coffee bar, the gelato shop, the local restaurant and so much more.
And so we set off walking. Of
course, there were stops for photos along the way. The streets of Rome offer so
much life. Archeological digs that are around every corner, interesting people
along the way, fountains, churches, architecture, doorways …. The list goes on.
Desigual is a brand that is
not well promoted in Canada. The only way I know to access their products is to
go online or to find a distributor in the US. But here in Rome, there are two
entire stores of clothing, bags and scarves within easy walking distance. It
did not take me very long to conquer the store! The bright colours and vibrant
designs were so appealing. Yes …. I purchased more than one item and left the
store swinging my Desigual bag happily on my arm.
We were walking down Via
Nationale which is one of the main shopping districts in town. Many brand name
stores are located there along with a large number of uniquely Italian shops
with wonderful products. We were in the market for some leather goods, shoes,
jewellery, glass … just about anything that caught our eye. We enjoyed the
search … and ended up deciding not to purchase anything more. It was just fun
to stroll and windowshop.
As we got closer to the “Old
City”, we did venture into some typical tourists shops looking for something
special for our little boys at home. We did find a couple of cute items to add
to their pile. I think they will be happy.
At this point we had about 4
hours to fill before our ticket time at the Borghese Gallery. We decided that
strolling the streets and laneways of Old Rome would be a good way to use that
time. Again, what a treat it was to turn this corner or that without a specific
destination or walking tour to follow. We were were just meandering.
We noticed that the crowd was
growing larger as we headed down one street. We followed in the same direction
as the hoards and found ourselves once again at the Trevi Fountain. It had been
so beautiful last night under the soft lights of the evening. And with a
manageable crowd. But today …. It was truly overwhelming for all the wrong
reasons. It was hardly possible to move among all the people and it was
certainly not possible to take the iconic photo of the Trevi Fountain without
the tourists. We managed to find ourselves places to sit on the steps in front
of the fountain and watched the crowd as they manoeuvred to be front and centre
in front of the fountain to get that photo. And then …. So did we. I threw the
coin and Jim took the photo. Except the first one did not turn out very well
(someone walked in front of the camera) so we did it again. But this time I was
not throwing a coin. I was faking it. After a few tries, we got it just
right but we will always know that it is
a photo of me in front of Trevi Fountain pretending to throw a coin. I bet many
others have the same photo but may or may not ‘fess up to it.
We wandered on a found a
lovely little restaurant with outdoor seating where we paused for lunch. Jim
had Tuscan soup and I have pasta with black pepper and sheep cheese. Both were
delicious but what enjoyed along with those dishes was the artichoke salad.
Neither of us can recall ever having raw artichoke before and it was fantastic!
A salad to remember …. If only we could get high quality, fresh artichokes at
home. We might just have to come back to Rome.
After lunch we wandered on
and again encountered quite a crowd. What was the attraction this time? Well,
it was the Spanish steps, another iconic location in Rome. But we wondered why.
In fact, for us, this site was a supreme disappointment. Run down steps with no
art or colour, filled with hundreds (maybe thousands) of people sitting on
them. And where did they lead? Far up the hill to a church that was also
amazingly run down. Hmmm …. What was the attraction?
We decided it was time to use
public transit to get to our next destination. There was a Metro Station close
at hand and we headed in that direction. It turns out that the Metro does not
go in the direction that we needed and we were directed to use the elevator to
go up to the next level to get a bus. We followed the directions given and
ended up, where else?, at the top of the Spanish Steps. They did not look any
more appealing from that vantage point and the crowds were, if anything, even
larger.
We once again asked for
directions and with the steep hills and narrow streets of Rome, we learned that
the nearest bus stop was about a kilometer away … and quite uphill. So off we
went in search of the elusive bus. Finally, we found the correct street and
even a bus stop but the traffic was so horrendous that nary a vehicle was
moving. Now what? Once again we sought advice, this time from a doorman at a
very classy hotel. Perhaps he was biased in his response but he told us where
the nearest taxi stand was and suggested we go there. He had no idea when or
whether a bus would make it through the traffic and arrive at the stop.
Hot, tired, a bit frustrated,
we took this man’s advice and found the taxi stand. Within minutes we were in a
comfortable vehicle with a driver who knew where he was going. Very soon, we
were at the beautiful park that surrounded the Borghese Gallery.
The heat of the day melted
away as we entered the park. Tall, mature trees grew along the promenade and
indeed throughout the park. Although it was just a short walk to the gallery,
our mood had lightened by the time we arrived. First stop was the café where we
both enjoyed a cappuccino and an ice cream bar. We were now ready for another
venture into the world of art.
The Borghese Gallery is a
former villa owned by the Borghese Family. Within that family were many members
who were very high ranking persona in the Catholic Church, including Pope Paul
V in 1605. The villa was very large and
beautifully designed, ideal for collecting and displaying art in all forms.
And that is exactly what the family did. There is some speculation that some of the funds for this massive collection may have come from the church coffers and the art preserved in the private home of the Borgheses. At this point, what is more important is the breadth of the collection and the amazing job of displaying and preserving all of it.
From the moment you proceed
into the grand entry hall, you can tell that this is going to be the experience
of a lifetime. Ancient mosaics installed on the floors (no walking there); marble
sculptures by famous and infamous artists tastefully displayed in every room;
paintings from the smallest to the largest, carefully arranged on the walls;
frescoes on every ceiling; marble columns, floors, table tops and pedestals
representing many different kinds of marble that come from all over the world.
Even for those of us who know
very little about art, this was an amazing place to spend some time (2 hours
maximum as that is all your ticket allows). We had a printed guide highlighting
some particular works to examine and it was very useful to our novice eye. To
try to take in every piece would have been both impossible and overwhelming in
the attempt. Suffice it to say that we appreciated the work of Bernini (Two
Babies Milking a Goat – age 11, Apollo and Daphne, and Bust of Pope Paul V);
Carvaggio (Bacchus and David with Head of Goliath); Raphael (Deposition of
Christ – 1507). We also paused to absorb the beauty or power of several other
pieces as we passed through each room. The collection and the setting were both
astounding.
Upon leaving the gallery,
there was a taxi waiting at the gate. We hopped in and headed home. Our last
full day in Rome, complete. We ate dinner in our comfortable apartment and
relaxed by catching up on photos and this diary and generally turning our focus
to travelling home.
We have thoroughly enjoyed
our tour of Italy. But, we are also ready to go home. A perfect time to head to
the airport.
Tomorrow, we fly!